This page contains:
Scibor Goblin Shaman mini for The Troll Trader.
A couple of dwarfs from long ago.
A couple of Mantic Games ghouls.
Some Dryad Tree Regiment.
Mantic Games dwarfs from the Dwarf King's Hold game.

Scibor Goblin Shaman

Used this mini to test my speed at painting. I got this at Salute 2013 and completed it in 17 days at a leisurely pace. It was fun to do!

Shaman1 Shaman2

Shaman3 Shaman4

Shaman5 Shaman6

Shaman7 Shaman8

Dwarf #1

This is a very old figure that deserved to have a new paint job. To make the eyes stand out a bit more, they were done in red.
The robe has had some kind of scripture trim. There's a little stick-man amongst the symbols. He's the smallest out of all my dwarfs so far.


Dwarf Sheamus

Angry little naked dwarf guy called "Sheamus" lol. Painting his eyes took ages.  He might get tattooed someday.



Mantic Games Dwarf King's Hold - The Dwarfs


Lightly modified dwarfs with rotating base feature (The game doesn't come with bases). Mainly detail enhancing with sculpting and posture. Light conversion work (lion head on shield). Wanted to get them of the desk, so they finally got painted. The bases were detailed more than intended but works ok with the rotating feature. The feature helps models rank up next to each other. Eyes are painted red to go with the royal red theme. Their helmets and hammers are painted NMM as I didn't want them to be too glittery with metallics.


Dwarf Mite






Dwarf Phor









Dwarf Ramdam





Dwarf Tenderfoot





Dwarf Thumper







Dwarf Mouse






Dwarf Chopsue









Mantic Games Ghouls

Lightly converted with custom basing. Given a little gore effect with glazed eyes and satin coated skin.





This ghoul after it was painted lacked a little something. So he had further modifications whilst the painted areas were masked.




Here are the additional modifications. He's been  shackled. Getting the chains in place was a bit challenging not to damage the paint. The bits on his wrists have been glued in such a way to give the sense of motion (the chain sways back a little).



Here he is finished. A masking shield was used to touch up spots that needed repainting. The chains mainly had washes with some pva glue.

gb1 gb2
gb3 gb4

Dryad Regiment


A few figures from the Dryad Regiment. Gave them some detail enhancing by scoring deep lines. Pinned the arms to give best pose. Getting the heads into the right position took some time. Added putty here and there to blend it all together.

Greenstuffing was fun when it came to doing the bases. It's easy to go wild. Model 'A' lacks some of the wildness, but at the time I was just focusing on doing a tree stump. Doing leaves is easy, and giving them veiny detailing isn't hard to do - it's all just pokey work with the sculpting tools. Poke a central line, then angle the sculpting tool at an angle and poke the veins on one side, turn rotate the tool (mirror angle) and do the opposite side.The hard part is keeping track of all the leaves for when it comes to painting lol.

Mounting the model was done by cutting into the base itself, then added supporting bits of plastic for the feet to join to. Stuck the model down at a leaning angle (to give a more leaping effect). Any gaps were filled in with small wedges of plastic glued in, then trimmed down once dry. Then some greenstuff vines were sculpted going up the feet/leg to help reinforce the area. The arms are joined in a similar way, wedges of plastic to fill the gap around the wire pin, wait to dry, trim, then add additional putty. The wire goes all the way through the arm, it gets clipped off after all the reinforcing, then grind the stud using a dremel with a diamond ball tip so that it's just below the surface. Putty finishes it off and sculpted to blend into the area.

Dryad A

First time round, it didn't get scored so well, so it got done again after it was undercoated (still weren't deep enough really).
Scoring - Can be tricky to do, the blade can wander off striaght lines easily. I used a P-blade to do it, but found the opposite end (just the pointed end) did a great job. What tends to happen as you score is that the plastic creates ridges either side of your score. You might see that in some places in the WIP pics. Afterwards each score needs tidying either side to remove the ridges - This can be annoying as if not careful, you end up just pushing the ridge back over the score (flattening it out again), it will need rescoring to get the ridge back to the side again so that it can be removed properly (if that makes sense). Doing the scores confidently is best. Doing lots of light scoring will make it look hairy and also increase the chance for the blade to jump across scores (making a vein pattern). Strong scoring will help keep the lines seperate and give a more woodgrain look. 

ba5 ba6
ba7 ba8

ba1 ba2

ba3 ba4

The painting took a bit of battling which didn't really go anywhere. It's supposed to have a terracotta tone, and be a bit different than the tree stump. It's not very distinguishable unfortunately.

A1 A2 A3 a4 a5 a6a7 a8

Dryad B




Dryad B was using more of a stone colour basecoat, a bit of green wash was thrown in around areas like hips, calf muscles, and other more protruding bits. I wished I sculpted eyes for the goblin fairy. The sockets make it seem too skull like, and I think more round bug type would look better.

Leaves were painted dark green, then the edge highlighted a bit with a brighter green. Then dab a bit of dark purple in the centre, then a brighter pink in the middle. A little bit of green wash was added to the edge and purple wash in the middle. 

b1 b2

b3 b4

b5 b6

b7 b9

b10 b11

Dryad C

Dryad C was a bit more straight forward, just went in with a snakebite basecoat and then sandy drybrushing for highlighting. Eyes were done by, undercoating white, basecoat red, the bring in pink, and then add thin layers of white. Then glaze with red tint.

The next one I'll probably do in a redish paint scheme. The build is nearly there, just the back needs attaching and some sculpt to blend to all together.

 bc3 bc4

bc5 bc6

bc7 bc8

 bc9 bc10


c1 c2 c3 c4c5 c6c7 c8c9 c10c11 c12c13 c14

Dryad D

Autumn leaves.

D1 D2

D3 D4

D5 D6

D7 D8