These are how the Mk1 and Mk2 Cryostasis kits turned out.

Mk3 is currently being redeveloped with radical improvements.

Mk1 Cryostasis Kit

 General Specs:

  • 17x22 x74mm (Mk2 is slightly shorter, Mk3 will have bigger footprint for stability).

  • Glass Tube + various contents - Skulls, Brains, Dice etc (Mk2 the tube is removable + carry handle), liquids (makes things floaty), other small items can go inside.
    Be careful not to drop as glass can break easily.
  • Hatch (Mk2 feature, allows Tube to be removed).
  • Accessories/ Interchangeable parts (result from prototyping).
  • Additional Detailing - Some parts are additionally designed purely to give customers more value and customizing options (They're not really features of the Cryo Kit).



Mk2 Cryo Kit

The upper block has been redone as a single piece. The sides have been redesigned. The back panel (which was completely blank) has been jazzed up. It kinda lead to jazzing the top and then it was a case of 'ah mighta well go all the way'. So it's become a hatch so the tube can be removed or be swapped for other tubes.

The lower block is currently in design stages to give it some extra height and bigger footprint so it won't topple over so easily.

Trail with Dice in tube - Not very good. Unfortunately although a very cool idea, they just float striaght down (no tumbling at all). There'll need to be something in there with it to help knock it about.

Here's the Mk2 design in pieces:

Upper Block with new sides.


Back Plate (front view) & Back Plate (back view, gets stuck to Upper Block)


 'The Plane' - Provides extra support to the brackets. This piece will need redoing.


Back Plate + Plane. The 4 holes need to be drilled a little before sticking.


The Hatch - Needs a handle, but hey much better than original design.


 The Brackets - On the right is the original. On the left is current design.


Stick 2 Brackets either side of the Plane. There are a couple of guide lines to help line it up striaght.


The Hatch pinned to the Brackets using a sewing needle. Sanding the Hatch a little will help prevent paint jamming. Allow some space for movement.


Lower Block layout & Upper Block layout



Alternative front, stuck at an angle. You could add putty in the corners to help strengthen it.


Discovered the Plane piece lines up a bit left-of-centre. Putty added to fill the gap. Plane will need to be redone.


The tube-ends need to be drilled and stuck to the underside of the Upper block and on top of the Lower block.


Drill the holes in each block for the rods to be added. If the Upper block is drill with deep holes, it'll make it easier to fit the upper block onto the 4 rods later on.


Mark up some parrel lines. These will need to be cut out. A saw is good, then use a knife/files, to tidy it up. This is really just some detail enhancing.


The kit comes with 4 rods and fixings.

Stick the 4 rods into each hole of the lower block (try and keep it striaght). Keep the fixings away for the moment.

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Add a small dot of superglue with a stick. Then on each corner, push just 1 fixing down into place.

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The lower block side panel. Check which edge is the bottom, then add dots of superglue to the edge.


Lining this up can be tricky.  You can use a clean stick to help push it down in place. The back panel is currently being redesigned and hopefully will make it easier for the sides to go on.


Give the Upper block  a good sanding inside where the tube is going to slide through. Turn the tube upside down and pass the bottom through the Upper block. Now rest the hatch on top of it. Slide them down back into the Upper block and line the hatch between the brackets. This is where I discovered the holes didn't line up. Here I've had to reposition the holes in the brackets and fill in the old ones. This issue is currently being addressed. A sewing needle was used to pin it.

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The tube. The top has quickly had a handle added. The sealing of the tube is another issue being worked on. The contents inside this tube are a spine from Mantic Games and one of skulls from the Duststore. The contents and plug have to be prepainted.


Provided the tube can slide easily, it can be hooked out for replacing & swaps.


There it is so far. This Mk2 will be finished to find any more bugs. Mk3 is still quite in it's development phase and there's still quite a lot of experimenting to do with the tube itself.